tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-146768792024-03-23T13:58:17.453-04:00Backyard GrangerRiches in the soil, prosperity in the air, progress everywhere.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger212125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-16978484351231411142009-09-23T08:33:00.001-04:002009-09-23T08:33:18.141-04:00Bee on Sedum, Autumn Joy<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/3945891645/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2525/3945891645_24d5076420.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/3945891645/">Bee on Sedum, Autumn Joy</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-2548019320899549962008-07-05T14:39:00.001-04:002008-07-05T14:39:14.432-04:00Echinacea<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2639203014/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3105/2639203014_b6a35eb61c.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2639203014/">Echinacea</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-81064302860146934452008-06-30T08:22:00.001-04:002008-06-30T08:22:26.486-04:00Echinacea Purpurea Magnus<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2620370403/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/2620370403_ba28b0ae74.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2620370403/">Cone Flower</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> About ready to bloom.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-30655003351915645012008-05-24T07:04:00.003-04:002008-05-24T07:12:14.239-04:00Relay Cropping for Small Gardens<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDwMuD0t4rypgWByUJZyx4z1dHvVcJ22AncxN45u5PuKI0Ddafy642xYsUN-c3NkBYkx8VwuShB0etpDO3jQmBBo1alRflgTZWLk9AhgA3DmVkUFFG6_qaByD3esx1CSAlQbMg6g/s1600-h/IMG_6207.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDwMuD0t4rypgWByUJZyx4z1dHvVcJ22AncxN45u5PuKI0Ddafy642xYsUN-c3NkBYkx8VwuShB0etpDO3jQmBBo1alRflgTZWLk9AhgA3DmVkUFFG6_qaByD3esx1CSAlQbMg6g/s400/IMG_6207.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5203900373396571170" border="0" /></a>A fancy term for a simple concept, relay cropping involves growing a fast and quick-maturing crop alongside one that takes longer to mature. To maximize space, tomatoes and tomatillos -- tall plants that take a long time to mature -- are grown among salad greens that grow and mature quickly. The lettuce growing around the tomato plants keeps the weeds down and moisture in. With a week or two, the tomatoes begin to tower over the lettuce, allowing room for both. When the weather begins to warm up causing the tomatoes to take off, it's time to harvest the last remaining lettuce before it bolts and turns bitter. Picture: Sungold tomato growing among red sails lettuce.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-78207129357738939532008-05-18T07:12:00.001-04:002008-05-24T07:14:00.970-04:00View from the Garden: Spinach<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3kj5ZqAdvMdJANDOIIT5oYIbuymwVZyteXyNbAzxuhqutcqBJSsX0vmHWqYb-wxBRMVjAQdVjhXjd2-OSbFyS38dpLzb8Y9yo3g1ySWBo2PM9p0VDV6to1DMKiddh9h3r7TAMQ/s1600-h/IMG_6210.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3kj5ZqAdvMdJANDOIIT5oYIbuymwVZyteXyNbAzxuhqutcqBJSsX0vmHWqYb-wxBRMVjAQdVjhXjd2-OSbFyS38dpLzb8Y9yo3g1ySWBo2PM9p0VDV6to1DMKiddh9h3r7TAMQ/s400/IMG_6210.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5203901026231600178" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-12789821260986865602008-04-27T22:39:00.000-04:002008-05-01T22:42:02.548-04:00Bleeding Heart<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLUw6QAgK2OFtfanvFOoFHSl9moFABCjjZ0GwQP_s90kUWcFat05t8T_xwX4cKaOJ2SBdmF1TaYpVHQ4eCuXSzNFp6vS6g2igSeZ0nPJdTKXB4Ruog1m9BaVG4eajjtp0zVAfPw/s1600-h/IMGP1559.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLUw6QAgK2OFtfanvFOoFHSl9moFABCjjZ0GwQP_s90kUWcFat05t8T_xwX4cKaOJ2SBdmF1TaYpVHQ4eCuXSzNFp6vS6g2igSeZ0nPJdTKXB4Ruog1m9BaVG4eajjtp0zVAfPw/s400/IMGP1559.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195605127194923922" border="0" /></a>A perennial that's been unloved for a few seasons, it dies back in the summer and reemerges every spring.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-55612503121318673572008-04-27T22:33:00.000-04:002008-05-01T22:37:31.029-04:00Spinach Sprouts in Six Days; Spinach Day 6 (or 1?) (GDD 70)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejKyK3G0IA43rqKcK2j2BKMSXJqaeCjoHd1eNztTOKLHL0DlZ0akkq-Ux9ICW_TiNtUWh175s2z043Oxy2JF-Y9MmBgWXiUrpdJQdOh-3sqzOv0ahOyCTP7ak5bhneN-MoexT6w/s1600-h/IMGP1556.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjejKyK3G0IA43rqKcK2j2BKMSXJqaeCjoHd1eNztTOKLHL0DlZ0akkq-Ux9ICW_TiNtUWh175s2z043Oxy2JF-Y9MmBgWXiUrpdJQdOh-3sqzOv0ahOyCTP7ak5bhneN-MoexT6w/s400/IMGP1556.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195603842999702402" border="0" /></a>Perhaps a bit late in the planting to planted, a stretch of warm weather ensured quick germination. We'll see how they do as the heat builds through the month of May.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-77151277468494438612008-04-27T22:30:00.000-04:002008-05-01T22:33:07.844-04:00Peas, Day 35 (GDD 70)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUeVSdkqj3VT0BrIP4kiKB2TgVqpqPiD8lho2gQOvNQGom_kdwQPUHxmn4AX8NKVlp1bRPYJHG5ZDNJTWUFOss0OgYvubT651iTSc07XjQ5lwpqFFNYSZAaB3hYUqMDoegBYDzpQ/s1600-h/IMGP1555.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUeVSdkqj3VT0BrIP4kiKB2TgVqpqPiD8lho2gQOvNQGom_kdwQPUHxmn4AX8NKVlp1bRPYJHG5ZDNJTWUFOss0OgYvubT651iTSc07XjQ5lwpqFFNYSZAaB3hYUqMDoegBYDzpQ/s400/IMGP1555.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195602661883695986" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-36587744123647082402008-04-27T22:22:00.002-04:002008-05-01T22:27:23.891-04:00Lettuce, Day 15 (GDD 70)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEged8ZKR9ZQ44je5SU0jLgpKO4aeQa3rUNAbpfTpSk8fPIleUpdG3v9EaO9hu6VdMXBLe6TwKqsMnoISoCunniLVOqnX4JDQbGHMTSAPZzR-lFgTyMfKC_yggO8RDRFmXYngbrzlA/s1600-h/IMGP1552.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEged8ZKR9ZQ44je5SU0jLgpKO4aeQa3rUNAbpfTpSk8fPIleUpdG3v9EaO9hu6VdMXBLe6TwKqsMnoISoCunniLVOqnX4JDQbGHMTSAPZzR-lFgTyMfKC_yggO8RDRFmXYngbrzlA/s400/IMGP1552.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195601330443834210" border="0" /></a>Mesclun mix, red sails and buttercrunch, enclosed by loving chicken wire.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-59295734387449267942008-04-22T08:32:00.001-04:002008-04-22T08:32:48.125-04:00Forsythia Blossoms<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2432184939/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2099/2432184939_b1552fdc1e.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2432184939/">Forsythia</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-40922169286177640792008-04-15T22:50:00.004-04:002008-04-16T21:54:49.846-04:00Protecting Vegetables from Frost<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi365yadTDo1Y65vS8SjDtjRrV5_vETOf1R6FLEr82tHFX3iU14w7NTM-0W27q9_RqDwQjei77WI6OReDlsfDaLvDC2v_zMDn8lufX33kYYxZfirpvY3ZtJ9PdWxDi2YLAkYdUBmg/s1600-h/IMGP1367.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi365yadTDo1Y65vS8SjDtjRrV5_vETOf1R6FLEr82tHFX3iU14w7NTM-0W27q9_RqDwQjei77WI6OReDlsfDaLvDC2v_zMDn8lufX33kYYxZfirpvY3ZtJ9PdWxDi2YLAkYdUBmg/s320/IMGP1367.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190026536418316322" border="0" /></a>It's been spring for a little while, but it's cold as the dickens out there. Many vegetables, even the frost-hardy ones, can wither if it gets too chilly. An easy, if not exceedingly attractive, way to protect tender plants is by putting old Kahlua bottles, milk cartons, or even cardboard boxes over the top. From experience, I sleep better in cardboard than surrounded by Kahlua (though I do like Kahlua-soaked dreams) and I trust my plants feel the same. Seriously, corrugated cardboard works quite well. According to the <a href="http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/COLUMNGW/gr030919.html">experts</a>, it's best to put your covers on before it get too cold and try to water your garden before doing so -- the extra water will prop up the temperature a bit.<br /><br />Good list of the various frost tolerances for plants <a href="http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/fallgarden.html">here</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-54568165422093951642008-04-12T14:03:00.000-04:002008-04-13T14:11:08.693-04:00Lettuce Planted (GDD 29)<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2409248431/" title="Lettuce Transplants by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2021/2409248431_caa7c20020.jpg" alt="Lettuce Transplants" height="333" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Around these parts warm weather means shotgunning Miller High Life, moving my weight bench to the front yard, and planting frost-hardy leafy vegetables. Buttercrunch, mesclun, and red sails, one of <a href="http://backyardgranger.blogspot.com/2007/05/red-sails-romaine-lettuce-day-39.html">last year's better performers</a> were planted today.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-70298627925639725452008-04-11T06:08:00.001-04:002008-04-11T06:08:12.684-04:00Rhododenron Leaves & Flower Buds<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392963206/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3258/2392963206_159d5edac2.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392963206/">Rhododenron Leaves & Flower Buds</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-36041387561371966392008-04-10T22:18:00.000-04:002008-04-14T22:19:21.363-04:00Daffodils Bloom (GDD 20)<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2409253429/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3228/2409253429_591fdf5f7d.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2409253429/">Daffodil</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> The first bloom came about a month after they peeked through the soil and about a week-and-a-half ahead of last year.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-69917189105694319672008-04-09T10:20:00.003-04:002008-04-13T13:13:42.055-04:00Super Snap Peas Sprout in 17 Days (GDD 12)<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2409248819/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2327/2409248819_9703d4675f.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /><span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2409248819/">Pea Sprouts</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Planted on Easter Sunday, the first super sugar snap peas sprouted today. 17 days after planting, peas shoots emerged, which is on par with fellow Massachusetts gardener,<a href="http://carletongarden.blogspot.com/2008/04/pea-sprout.html"> Skippy's Vegetable Garden</a>. Peas can be planted, as the expression goes, as soon as the soil can be worked. That's a bit imprecise, but mid-to-late March for Southern New England seems practical. Even though they can be planted early, early sowing is traded for long germination times. This <a href="http://tomclothier.hort.net/page11.html">chart</a> illustrates the principle well.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-74061117423240770322008-04-05T11:46:00.005-04:002008-04-06T15:14:59.509-04:00Springtime on the Grange; Peony, Hydrangea, Azalea Break Dormancy (GDD 12)<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392133785/" title="Crocuses by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3106/2392133785_b9002f23fb.jpg" alt="Crocuses" height="333" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392126299/" title="Rhododendron Mucronulatem "Cornell Pink" by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2151/2392126299_62ee90bfc8_m.jpg" alt="Rhododendron Mucronulatem "Cornell Pink"" height="160" width="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392125125/" title="Hydrangea Macrophyla Leaf by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2182/2392125125_f8993db6d8_m.jpg" alt="Hydrangea Macrophyla Leaf" height="160" width="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392124437/" title="Paeonia lactiflora "Bowl of Beauty" Eye Bud by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2201/2392124437_58e5f115c1_m.jpg" alt="Paeonia lactiflora "Bowl of Beauty" Eye Bud" height="160" width="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2392960156/" title="Rhododendron Leaf Bud by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2392960156_5338de4bd6_m.jpg" alt="Rhododendron Leaf Bud" height="160" width="240" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">(top: crocuses; bottom, clockwise: azalea buds, hydrangea leaf, </span><span style="font-size:85%;">rhododendron leaf bud</span><span style="font-size:85%;">, peony eyes emerge)</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"> For the past week, <a href="http://www.enature.com/fieldguides/detail.asp?recnum=AR0014">spring peepers</a> have provided the season's soundtrack from the pond a few hundred feet from the grange. Spring is in the ear, if not in the air.<br /><br /> The season's first peony eyes were spotted this morning. Purchased from Wal-Mart for a few bucks,<span style="font-style: italic;"> Paeonia lactiflora</span> "Bowl of Beauty" was <a href="http://backyardgranger.blogspot.com/2007/05/weekly-update-perennial-border-planted.html">planted in May 2007</a> after languishing for months in my basement before being rediscovered and planted. An instant malingerer, it never grew more than a few inches tall despite constant prodding, good schools, and the best private tutors. This year, it has put its humble beginnings behind it and has emerged far ahead of its <a href="http://backyardgranger.blogspot.com/2007/06/peony-blooms.html">more established counterpart</a> in the other bed, "Sara Bernhardt," which didn't emerge until April 20 last year.<br /><br />The bigleaf <span style="font-style: italic;">hydrangea macrophyllas</span>, both the "bailmer" remontant and traditional varieties, have broken their winter dormancy. My traditional hydrangea - the kind that blooms on old wood - did not set any flowers last year and only 1 or 2 in 2006, whereas the remonant variety, which blooms on new wood put on a show all summer. This past winter wasn't quite as cold as last year's, allowing the traditional hydrangea to emerge a week sooner this year, so there might be hope for a least a few flowers.<br /><br />In other corners of the garden, the Cornell Pink azalea (<span style="font-style: italic;">rhododendron mucronulatum</span>) has started to leaf out. Crocuses continue to delight.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-42212313145056562822008-04-03T21:40:00.005-04:002008-04-03T22:47:40.929-04:00Useful Link: Growing Degree Day Maps<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/1393197815/" title="Flowers by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1036/1393197815_cd02d24376.jpg" alt="Flowers" height="400" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Faithful readers of this blog, all five of you including two inmates in a Hungarian penitentiary, know that I'm about as big into phenology as one could be. <a href="http://backyardgranger.blogspot.com/2007/02/growing-degree-days.html">See</a>?<br /><br />Plants grow best at temperatures above 50 degrees. So, instead of looking at the calendar to see where your plants should be, it's better to see how often it's been above 50 degrees. Enter: the <a href="http://www.umass.edu/umext/ipm/ipm_projects/landscape/gdd_phrenology.html">growing degree day</a>, a rough calculation of how much the weather has been above 50. It's a useful indicator for gardeners because plants bloom, insects emerge, and celebrities wither at <a href="http://wihort.uwex.edu/landscape/PhenoEvents.htm">set phenological times</a>. For instance, dandelions first flower at about 50 growing degree days, lilacs at about 238. (Kiddos - enter your phenological data <a href="http://www.windows.ucar.edu/citizen_science/budburst/phenology.php">here</a>. Don't mention it to your friends. You'll surely remain dateless at prom if you do.)<br /><br />Starting last year, all updates on this here "world wide web log" were keyed to GDDs, setting up comparisons (and fodder) for this year's posts.<br /><br />The link below generates maps GDD across the county, allowing New Englanders to obtain a graphical representation of some of their poorer horticultural decisions as they covet gardens of warmer climes. <a href="http://pnwpest.org/US/">GDD Maps</a>.<br /><br />Sources: <a href="http://www.umass.edu/umext/ipm/ipm_projects/landscape/gdd_phrenology.html">U. Mass.</a>, <a href="http://wihort.uwex.edu/landscape/PhenoEvents.htm">U. Wisc</a>. <a href="http://sepaipm.cas.psu.edu/factsheets/chl-9.htm">Penn St.</a>, <a href="http://www.windows.ucar.edu/citizen_science/budburst/phenology.php">Project Bud Burst</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-31196530170411424872008-03-30T19:50:00.004-04:002008-03-30T20:40:27.167-04:00Larkspur, Cornflower, and Poppies Started in Elegant Back of Garage Cutting Garden<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/26890763/" title="IMG_0915 by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/22/26890763_42a2e38a30.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0915" /></a></span></span><br /><br />It's time to sow seeds in my garden like a sailor on shore leave with just days to live. But, when exactly? The backs of seed packets are vague and often offer little guidance, so below is a bit more guidance gleaned from the internet. <br /><br />With afternoon temperatures near 48, a new garden bed behind the garage was prepared. Gone are a bunch of hostas that were mere placeholders last season until a better idea was hatched. That idea now is a cutting garden. Larkspur, poppies, and cornflower were sown today as soil temperatures were around 38, but, at that temperature, germination could still be weeks away.<br /><br /><b id="g6on">Cleome</b><br /><i id="vsn6">When</i>: After last frost when ground is warm, although one site from Virginia Tech suggested late fall or early spring.<br /><i id="rh:k"> That's Neat</i>: Needs oscillating temperatures of at least ten degrees. Germination is best with 80 degree days and 70 degree nights. Light is necessary for germination.<br /><i id="lb5q">Sources</i>: <a href="http://www.gardenguides.com/plants/info/flowers/annuals/cleome.asp" id="wxm:" title="Garden Guide">Garden Guide</a>, <a href="http://www.floridata.com/ref/C/cleo_has.cfm" id="mfo9" title="Floridata">Floridata</a>, <a href="http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/6/" id="f_au" title="Plant Files">Plant Files</a>, <a href="http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/VA-news/VA-Pilot/issues/1997/vp970601/05310056.htm" id="f-wp" title="Virginia Tech">Virginia Tech</a>, <a href="http://home.howstuffworks.com/define-cleome-spider-flower.htm" id="e3-7" title="How Stuff Works">How Stuff Works</a>, <a href="http://www.goldsmithseeds.com/datasheets/pdf/CLEOMEDWARF.pdf" id="t8:7" title="Goldsmith Seeds">Goldsmith Seeds</a><br /><br /><b id="tn77">Bachelor Button / Cornflower</b><br /><i id="hrid">When</i>: 1 to 2 weeks before last frost.<br /><i id="rqfg">Sources</i>: <a title="Dave's Garden" href="http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/186/" id="d.i0">Dave's Garden</a>, <a title="Garden Guide" href="http://www.gardenguides.com/plants/info/flowers/annuals/bachelor.asp" id="s6yo">Garden Guide</a>, <a title="Virginia Tech Weed ID Guide" href="http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/cency.htm" id="j-eu">Virginia Tech Weed ID Guide</a><br /><br /><span id="s.c7"><b id="aefy">Corn Poppy "American Legion" <span id="osac"><i id="e2y7">Papaver rhoeas</i></span></b></span><br /><i id="uqpi">When</i>: As soon as soil can be worked.<br /><i id="a.ia">Light: </i>Full sun to partial shade.<br /><i id="cjfr">Sources</i>: <a title="Ovm-Seed" href="http://www.ovm-seeds.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxesfitemdetail.aspx?sfid=136776&c=116519&i=224122716" id="ijgz">Ovm-Seed</a>, <a title="Dave's Garden" href="http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/237/" id="l9n7">Dave's Garden</a>, <a title="Taunton" href="http://www.taunton.com/finegardening/plantguide/papaver-rhoeas-corn-poppy.aspx" id="te_m">Taunton</a>, <a title="Gardening Tips" href="http://www.gardening-tips-perennials.com/poppies.html" id="mcqw">Gardening Tips</a>, <a title="Suite 101" href="http://landscaping.suite101.com/article.cfm/radiant_poppy_landscapes_" id="wdxy">Suite 101</a>, <a title="Texas A & M" href="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wildseed/24/24.1.html" id="cw2m">Texas A & M</a>, <a title="Michigan State" href="http://www.anrcats.msu.edu/press/020108/021808_poppieslg.htm" id="jm51">Michigan State</a>,<a title="Iowa State" href="http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/2002/6-21-2002/poppies.html" id="qwve">Iowa State</a>, <a title="Purdue University" href="http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/HO-080.pdf" id="yqmu">Purdue University</a> (fantastic guide to all sorts of flowers), <a title="UC Riverside" href="http://www.gardens.ucr.edu/events/wildflowerseeds.html" id="y88l">UC Riverside</a><br /><br /><b id="f9-7"><span id="k:-0"><i id="as5c">Celosia Cristata</i></span> / <span id="m3:j"><i id="zhn5">Celosia argentea</i></span> "Pampas Plume"<br /></b><i id="v3jd">When: </i>Outdoors, when soil temp is about 60 F and all risk of frost has passed.<br /><i id="ct_4">Sources</i>: <a title="Texas A & M" href="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/newsletters/hortupdate/apr06/Celosia.html" id="e0hq">Texas A & M</a>, <a title="Purdue University" href="http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/HO-080.pdf" id="wlc:">Purdue University</a>, <a title="U. of Md." href="http://extension.umd.edu/publications/PDFs/FS684.pdf" id="zx5m">U. of Md.</a>, <a title="Yankee Harvest" href="http://www.yankeeharvest.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HSF6019" id="h:.b">Yankee Harvest</a>, <a title="UVM" href="http://pss.uvm.edu/pss123/anncelo.html" id="li2h">UVM</a><br /><br /><span id="mfqz"><b id="c16d">Larkspur </b></span><i id="lg1z"><b id="u260">Consolida ajacis</b></i><br /><span id="oiw2"><i id="k0vr">When</i></span>: As soon as soil can be worked.<br /><span id="vk64"><i id="kk_l">Light</i></span>: Sun to partial shade<br /><span id="kgut"><i id="w7.c">That's interesting</i></span>: Poisonous if ingested, yet the genus, consolida, is a reference to its medicinal ability to heal wounds.<br /><span id="im82"><i id="v34c">Sources</i></span>: <a title="Garden Guide" href="http://www.gardenguides.com/how-to/tipstechniques/flowers/larkspur.asp" id="dzvm">Garden Guide</a>, <a title="U. Maryland" href="http://extension.umd.edu/publications/PDFs/FS713.pdf" id="vr_e">U. Maryland</a>, <a title="Texas A & M" href="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/98promotions/january/january.html" id="yohi">Texas A & M</a>, <a title="U. Maryland" href="http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06570.htm" id="ymu3">U. Maryland</a>, <a title="Colorado St." href="http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/garden/07409.html" id="ok71">Colorado St.</a>, <a title="Brooklyn Botanic" href="http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/plants/2002sp_herbs.html" id="oc54">Brooklyn Botanic</a>, <a title="Calendula and Concrete" href="http://cc-calendula.blogspot.com/2008/02/planting-larkspur.html" id="zfvw">Calendula and Concrete</a>, <a title="Gardener's Network" href="http://www.gardenersnet.com/flower/larkspur.htm" id="jmxe">Gardener's Network</a><br /><br /><span id="wgk4"><b id="whv5">Zinnia </b><span id="nmel"><b id="yk28"><i id="zsyo">Zinnia elegans</i></b></span></span><br /><span id="ytyx"><i id="be53">When</i></span>: After the danger of frost has passed and soil sufficiently warmed.<br /><span id="z:ex"><i id="yjyv">Sources</i></span>: <a title="Virginia Tech" href="http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/articles/herbaceous_plants/zinnias.html" id="xw01">Virginia Tech</a>, <a title="University of Kentucky" href="http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/gardenflowers/zinnia.pdf" id="rlnn">University of Kentucky</a>, <a title="Iowa State" href="http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/RG324.pdf" id="igx_">Iowa State</a>, <a title="U. Wisconsin" href="http://www.hort.wisc.edu/mastergardener/Features/flowers/zinnias/zinnias.htm" id="ffzg">U. Wisconsin</a>, <a title="U. Florida" href="http://hendry.ifas.ufl.edu/HCHortNews_Zinnia.htm" id="t9qh">U. Florida</a><br /><br /><span id="hz6." style="font-weight: bold;">Nasturtium <span id="e.d4" style="font-style: italic;">Trapaeolum majus</span></span><br /><span id="cb35" style="font-style: italic;">When</span>: After all danger of frost has passed.<br /><span id="tw6d" style="font-style: italic;">That's neat</span>: An aphid magnet, it's a good decoy to plant in vegetable gardens. Fully edible with a taste akin to watercress.<br /><span id="dp26" style="font-style: italic;">Sources</span>: <a title="U. Kentucky" href="http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/gardenflowers/tatz.htm#Tropaeolum" id="zdab">U. Kentucky</a>, <a title="U. Wisconsin" href="http://www.hort.wisc.edu/mastergardener/Features/flowers/nasturtium/nasturtium.htm" id="um9-">U. Wisconsin</a>, <a title="Garden Guide" href="http://www.gardenguides.com/plants/info/flowers/annuals/nasturtium.asp" id="q1c2">Garden Guide</a>, <a title="Texas A&M" href="http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/newsletters/hortupdate/janfeb00/art1mar.html" id="jruj">Texas A&M</a><br /><br /><u id="frp4">General Sources</u><br /><a href="http://www.seedsofchange.com/digging/germ_technique.asp" id="zvoi" title="Seeds of Change">Seeds of Change</a>, <a href="http://tomclothier.hort.net/page05.html" id="scjf" title="Seed Database from Hort Net">Seed Database from Hort Net</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-8382353146094248892008-03-29T12:35:00.003-04:002008-03-29T12:47:01.091-04:00Useful Freeze Outlook Maps<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/289395820/" title="Frost on Thyme by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/99/289395820_92bebf646e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Frost on Thyme" /></a><br />Ignoring the snow flurries, frozen lakes, and little dogs swaddled in ridiculous sweaters, northern gardeners have been known to push the boundaries of spring. For those eager folks, here's a useful<a href="http://www.intellicast.com/National/Temperature/FrostFreeze.aspx"> map</a> from Intellicast that identifies areas subject to freezing and frosty temperatures.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-84093323749527144302008-03-23T19:21:00.005-04:002008-03-23T21:42:14.992-04:00Super Sugar Snap Peas Planted (GDD 6)<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2356197024/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2320/2356197024_485cbb99b1.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /><span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2356197024/">Super Sugar Snap Peas</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> The soil in the raised bed warmed to 40 degrees, prompting me to plant the first crop of the season - Burpee's Super Sugar Snap Peas. Having great success with plain sugar snaps last year, a full 8' row of peas were planted. Following Jim Crockett's advice -- if you're stingy with your peas, they'll be stingy with you -- seeds were liberally spread. Wise words. Wise man.<br /><br />Righting last year's improper citing of the raised bed, the bed was moved 30 feet east a bit south to take better advantage of the sun. During the height of summer last year, the bed received as few as four hours of direct sunlight, which lead to less-than-impressive yields.<br /><br />Also, a quick soil test showed that my soil is slightly alcaline and depleted of nutrients.</p>Sources: <a href="http://deirdrepope.com/Garden_PlantList_Peas.html">Deirdre's Garden Diary</a>, <a href="http://www.cdcg.org/factSheets/peas.pdf">Growing and Caring for Peas, Capital District Community Gardens<br /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-25415759879919951532008-03-11T21:25:00.006-04:002008-03-11T22:52:03.453-04:00Creating a Trellis for Raised Bed<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAu_yOXxFEATh9VcWuoSJKV1HBIwZ8-o1M8-w1v0w7Uk_pjZ8BgeVthyphenhyphenkh72zTNbAYrD_Hc1PjKotigv3RnSR1_9-0VMXuM24pH_gUic2HuhhRma18k0_dsDtDqMQ-1EO4UiZ_w/s1600-h/IMG_5222.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAu_yOXxFEATh9VcWuoSJKV1HBIwZ8-o1M8-w1v0w7Uk_pjZ8BgeVthyphenhyphenkh72zTNbAYrD_Hc1PjKotigv3RnSR1_9-0VMXuM24pH_gUic2HuhhRma18k0_dsDtDqMQ-1EO4UiZ_w/s320/IMG_5222.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176681250706516050" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Skip Jute. Choose Mason's Twine.</span><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Your trellis will only be as good as the string that holds it together. Skip twine, jute, or anything made of natural fibers. They'll quickly rot and will have to be replaced quickly. Mason's twine, 50-lbs test, and made of some sort of polypropylene works very well. The same twine strung last year and subjected to the heat of summer and the cold of winter has shown few signs of deterioration.<br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Place Eye Hooks at 6 to 9 Inch Intervals Across Top, Bottom, and Sides</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOmifIOOs6Wk9QTjFu37AhLfuX05oCoPwBHQIjvjZHTTWhWT7XifaiKOQoCUHP0Ac5ducKg4k6b8giGFWxOnoR5cQ3BhqnaobMUHuPqWNmER_dCEbvKBMxm8RcFM4JtO-V7_5Og/s1600-h/IMGP1248.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOmifIOOs6Wk9QTjFu37AhLfuX05oCoPwBHQIjvjZHTTWhWT7XifaiKOQoCUHP0Ac5ducKg4k6b8giGFWxOnoR5cQ3BhqnaobMUHuPqWNmER_dCEbvKBMxm8RcFM4JtO-V7_5Og/s200/IMGP1248.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176681628663638114" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">This allows all sorts of flexibility when it comes to creating designs, be it diagonal, vertical, horizontal, or perhaps a trendy European basketweave or houndstooth. My first go 'round was at 12 inch intervals. This was a bit too far for the peas for their liking as it took some coaxing to get them to grab hold of the string.<br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Anchor Your Line with Two Half-Hitches</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmP8yJY2mqKFY9lnoJW5uMMETdrqkRMX66SvqBpcp7AnVLu3XGzlBnK8N1L7tY-_o_cERncJG-ZOYCG8hIOUx2Wmzc0jDzbDvTIdxarZtNYsDZNR8lm4q8ds2r6RAbTnqJXvS1Q/s1600-h/IMGP1246.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmP8yJY2mqKFY9lnoJW5uMMETdrqkRMX66SvqBpcp7AnVLu3XGzlBnK8N1L7tY-_o_cERncJG-ZOYCG8hIOUx2Wmzc0jDzbDvTIdxarZtNYsDZNR8lm4q8ds2r6RAbTnqJXvS1Q/s200/IMGP1246.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176681873476774002" border="0" /></a>Say what? This should <a href="http://www.iwillknot.com/two_half-hitches/">help</a>. See picture.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">String Your Line Through the Eye Hooks</span><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Working side to side and then top to bottom, string the line through the hooks. Double up the line and make an extra pass on the lower levels. They'll be the first levels of support, so give yourself a bit of insurance. Line is cheap. Your time isn't.<br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Create a Cleat to Tie Off Your Line & Adjust Tension</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvuD7L-oPqaO7EQJLQ_ZDUKyP3t6fM8HsW6sHe8MydfwJIs9kT4jklFBSrbgJaOLq63CT4T0JDahGO0izYOq-82gXO47USKAZNj4fLQQ4mkb6NFspG6fxJYqVqMm33RfP6Mbw_7g/s1600-h/IMGP1247.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvuD7L-oPqaO7EQJLQ_ZDUKyP3t6fM8HsW6sHe8MydfwJIs9kT4jklFBSrbgJaOLq63CT4T0JDahGO0izYOq-82gXO47USKAZNj4fLQQ4mkb6NFspG6fxJYqVqMm33RfP6Mbw_7g/s200/IMGP1247.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5176682199894288514" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Anyone who's spent time around a boat knows how to tie a cleat knot. (Video and instructions <a href="http://www.videos.sailingcourse.com/cleat_wmv1.htm">here</a>.) This allows you to place tension on the lines as needed and quickly and securely tie off your line. To create the cleat, drive two nails about an inch apart into the wood -- one at an angle down and the other at an angle up. See the picture for details. Alternatively, they sell cleats in hardware stores that are meant to be used with blinds.<br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Tip: Peas Cling Most to Horizontal Supports, Pole Beans Cling to Vertical Supports</span><br />Consequently, provide more vertical support for beans and closer horizontal supports for peas. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-27182747199353526772008-03-08T22:58:00.005-05:002008-03-11T21:17:33.059-04:00Crocus Blooms (GDD 6)<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2325992606/" title="Crocus Blossom by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3236/2325992606_3563edeede.jpg" alt="Crocus Blossom" height="400" width="500" /></a><br /><br />The first bloom of the 2008 season. Last year, the first crocus bloom didn't appear until March 21st.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-55087563681882642332008-03-07T00:01:00.001-05:002008-03-08T00:04:39.796-05:00Crocuses and Daylillies (GDD 6)<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2317299843/" title="Crocus Emerges by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2172/2317299843_df056df538.jpg" alt="Crocus Emerges" height="333" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2317300465/" title="Daylillies by tpl108, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2125/2317300465_68b190ca28.jpg" alt="Daylillies" height="333" width="500" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-42907497298357220252008-03-04T05:43:00.006-05:002008-03-16T07:21:44.538-04:00Daffodils Emerge (GDD 6)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nf01urpnfQqICobZTbXn4TtG-yq1aXyTezLtxNiZM9cDHg-5Gx_A_7EOJiM9mSlE1Y2Pl1GbAlZa3D9FrCroNJwNAmO7gX3J5v5QtAgpv9Vm34Itj_i_uVq4T0496VbBbLL7Yg/s1600-h/IMGP1214.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nf01urpnfQqICobZTbXn4TtG-yq1aXyTezLtxNiZM9cDHg-5Gx_A_7EOJiM9mSlE1Y2Pl1GbAlZa3D9FrCroNJwNAmO7gX3J5v5QtAgpv9Vm34Itj_i_uVq4T0496VbBbLL7Yg/s400/IMGP1214.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5175230135876020290" border="0" /></a>Poking a few centimeters above the soggy soil, the first tulip shoots emerged today. Way back in September, dozens of bulbs were planted in beds across the front of the house. Not suprisingly, the first bulbs to show are planted closest to the house and in the sunniest bed. Compared to last year, these tulips emerged about 10 days earlier and 11 growing degree days sooner.<br /><br /><style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2317299227/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3206/2317299227_c4ecd2fc85.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /><span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2317299227/">Daffodils Emerge in Early March</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> </p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14676879.post-73453402530727388882008-03-01T07:42:00.002-05:002008-03-01T07:47:50.012-05:00Hi, I'd Like to Buy Some Flood Insurance . . .<style type="text/css">.flickr-photo { border: solid 2px #000000; }.flickr-yourcomment { }.flickr-frame { text-align: left; padding: 3px; }.flickr-caption { font-size: 0.8em; margin-top: 0px; }</style><div class="flickr-frame"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2290478756/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2412/2290478756_12465165e3.jpg" class="flickr-photo" alt="" /></a><br /> <span class="flickr-caption"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/tl/2290478756/">Charles River - Hemlock Gorge Dam</a>, originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/tl/">tpl108</a>.</span></div> <p class="flickr-yourcomment"> February's <a href="http://www.boston.com/news/local/breaking_news/2008/02/february_sets_a.html?p1=Well_MostPop_Emailed4">record-setting rainfall</a> firmly pushed eastern Massachusetts out of a mild drought that had persisted since the end of last summer. In all, about eight inches of precipitation fell over the past month. This should help my rhododendrons, which <a href="http://backyardgranger.blogspot.com/2007/04/winter-damage-seen-on-meserve-holly-and.html">were ravaged by cold and dry conditions</a> last winter. <br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0