Showing posts with label rudbeckia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rudbeckia. Show all posts

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Weekly Update: Water, Weed, Pick, Eat, Repeat (GDD 1298)

It's been seasonably warm, but not too hot. Rudbeckia, echinacea, and astilbe are nearly in full bloom. The beans and peas keep producing while the squash plant continues growing by leaps and bounds.

Like it Is . . . The Week that Was
7/16 - Pholx buds appear
7/19 - Rudbeckia blooms, pepper blooms in 52 days
7/20 - All spring-planted beets harvested. If the beets themselves were small, the leaves were quite tasty. More lettuce planted by seed.
7/21 - Sungold tomatoes begin to turn a shade of yellow 54 days after being transplanted.

Friday, July 20, 2007

Black-Eyed Susan Blooms

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii "Goldstrum"

Despite battling an early-season bought of septoria leaf spot, these black-eyed susans began blooming this week. Transplanted a little less than two months ago, it was a slow-grower initially, but began quickly filling out over the past two weeks.

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Weekly Update: Heat Arrives (GDD 866)

The peas are plentiful while the last of the lettuce was harvested.

June 26

  • Rudbeckia treated with fungicide for septoria leaf spot.
  • Daylillies bloom.
  • First tomato appears on the Better boy.
  • First sugar snap pea harvested

June 27
  • All tomatoes set fruit.
  • Cilantro planted.
  • High temperature of 96.1

June 28
  • Remaining Red Sails lettuce harvested

July 1
  • Last heads of bibb lettuce harvested.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Weekly Update: Dills and Pruning (GDD 705)

Garden

June 19

  • Colorburst, a slow-release fertilizer, applied to perennials.
June 23
  • Rhody and Forsythia radically pruned. One-third of branches cut back to ground. You could imagine how flipping sweet they look now.
  • Last of romaine lettuce harvested and removed.

June 24
  • Dill planted where the last of the romaine roamed.

Need Pruning Advice? With the price of pruning going through the roof, who doesn't? Here are a few links that should put you on the right track.
Virginia Tech's Guide to Sucessful Pruning
University of Tennessee's "Pruning Landscape Trees, Shrubs, and Ground Covers"

Tale of the Tape (last week's measurement)
  • Rudbeckia - 12" (11-12")
  • Phlox -16.5" (16")
  • Echinacea - 19-30.5" (18-25")
  • Pepper 9" (8")
  • Brandywine 16.5" (13")
  • Yellow Pear 17" (13")
  • Sungold 17.5" (13")
  • Better Boy 23" (23")

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Weekly Update; Heat Builds, Lettuce Out, Squash, Basil, Marigolds In (GDD 593)

A relatively slow week on the grange. Spring flowers are giving way to the heat of the summer. Perennials are starting to set flower buds while the lawn's growth begins to flag.

6/15

  • Peony and Mountain Laurel blooms all but faded.

6/16

  • Septoria leaf spot battle wears on. Infected foliage removed and a broad spectrum fungicide containing chlorothanil applied.
6/17
  • 3 heads of red sails and romaine lettuce removed after one final harvest, leaving 5 heads of Boston bibb and 2 heads each of red sails and romaine.
  • Squash plant added to the garden where the red sails and romaine once treaded.
  • Marigolds interspersed throughout the raised bed.
  • Two types of basil planted in containers.

Tale of the Tape
  • Rudbeckia - 11-12"
  • Phlox - 16"
  • Echinacea - 18-25"
  • Sedum - 24"
  • Pepper - 8"
  • Sungold - 13"
  • Yellow Pear - 13"
  • Brandywine - 13"
  • Better Boy - 23"
  • Peas - 46"

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Septoria Leaf Spot; Oh, How they Were Warned

Goldsturm - Septoria Leaf Spot

Call it Cupid's disease, indiscretion, or perhaps a case of flying a wee bit too close to the sun, but my rubeckia (Black-Eyed Susans) have contracted Septoria Leaf Spot: small, dark brown or purplish lesions peppered across its leaves.

Most likely caused by the fungus Septoria rudbeckiae, the damage is primarily cosmetic. The fungus overwinters on dead leaves and can remain viable for two or three years in the soil. By late spring or early summer -- right about now -- the fungus emerges and works its way up the plant from bottom to top. Moisture is essential to spread the creeping crud, so overhead watering is strongly discouraged. (Mutter-Natur take notice. Enough with the overhead watering already.)

Prevention is the only real treatment option. Remove infected leaves at the end of a growing season, consider spraying a fungicide early in the season, and have a candid and frank dialog about the dangers of running with a fast crowd.

UPDATE -- (6/24/07) A week ago, all infected leaves were removed and each plant was sprayed with broad spectrum fungicide containing chlorothanil. So far, so good. There are only a very small number of spots on the leaves and each plant appears to be doing well despite the loss of foliage. All other things being equal, the weather has turned much warmer and drier, so it's tough to pinpoint just what caused the spot to go away. At the least, removal of infected leaves was likely a major component of any turnaround.

Sources & More Information: U. of Minn., Plant & Pest Digital Library, Purdue U., New England Greenhouse, Walters Gardens, U. of Ill.

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Weekly Update: Perennial Border Planted (GDD 303)

May 21 - Boxwood psyllids emerge; rudbeckia fulgida "goldsturm," echinacea purpurea "magnus," paeonia lactiflora "Bowl of Beauty," and phlox paniculata "Orange Perfection" planted in perennial border. Astilbes and spirea relocated within the border while a rhododendron was shipped to the backyard. Soaker hose and lots of mulch laid down.
May 22 - Chives in full swing bloom.

picture: peony bud