Echinacea

Echinacea, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Echinacea Purpurea Magnus

Cone Flower, originally uploaded by tpl108.

About ready to bloom.

Relay Cropping for Small Gardens

A fancy term for a simple concept, relay cropping involves growing a fast and quick-maturing crop alongside one that takes longer to mature. To maximize space, tomatoes and tomatillos -- tall plants that take a long time to mature -- are grown among salad greens that grow and mature quickly. The lettuce growing around the tomato plants keeps the weeds down and moisture in. With a week or two, the tomatoes begin to tower over the lettuce, allowing room for both. When the weather begins to warm up causing the tomatoes to take off, it's time to harvest the last remaining lettuce before it bolts and turns bitter. Picture: Sungold tomato growing among red sails lettuce.

View from the Garden: Spinach

Bleeding Heart

A perennial that's been unloved for a few seasons, it dies back in the summer and reemerges every spring.

Spinach Sprouts in Six Days; Spinach Day 6 (or 1?) (GDD 70)

Perhaps a bit late in the planting to planted, a stretch of warm weather ensured quick germination. We'll see how they do as the heat builds through the month of May.

Peas, Day 35 (GDD 70)

Lettuce, Day 15 (GDD 70)

Mesclun mix, red sails and buttercrunch, enclosed by loving chicken wire.

Forsythia Blossoms

Forsythia, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Protecting Vegetables from Frost

It's been spring for a little while, but it's cold as the dickens out there. Many vegetables, even the frost-hardy ones, can wither if it gets too chilly. An easy, if not exceedingly attractive, way to protect tender plants is by putting old Kahlua bottles, milk cartons, or even cardboard boxes over the top. From experience, I sleep better in cardboard than surrounded by Kahlua (though I do like Kahlua-soaked dreams) and I trust my plants feel the same. Seriously, corrugated cardboard works quite well. According to the experts, it's best to put your covers on before it get too cold and try to water your garden before doing so -- the extra water will prop up the temperature a bit.

Good list of the various frost tolerances for plants here.

Lettuce Planted (GDD 29)

Around these parts warm weather means shotgunning Miller High Life, moving my weight bench to the front yard, and planting frost-hardy leafy vegetables. Buttercrunch, mesclun, and red sails, one of last year's better performers were planted today.

Rhododenron Leaves & Flower Buds

Rhododenron Leaves & Flower Buds, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Daffodils Bloom (GDD 20)

Daffodil, originally uploaded by tpl108.

The first bloom came about a month after they peeked through the soil and about a week-and-a-half ahead of last year.

Super Snap Peas Sprout in 17 Days (GDD 12)

Pea Sprouts, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Planted on Easter Sunday, the first super sugar snap peas sprouted today. 17 days after planting, peas shoots emerged, which is on par with fellow Massachusetts gardener, Skippy's Vegetable Garden. Peas can be planted, as the expression goes, as soon as the soil can be worked. That's a bit imprecise, but mid-to-late March for Southern New England seems practical. Even though they can be planted early, early sowing is traded for long germination times. This chart illustrates the principle well.

Springtime on the Grange; Peony, Hydrangea, Azalea Break Dormancy (GDD 12)

(top: crocuses; bottom, clockwise: azalea buds, hydrangea leaf, rhododendron leaf bud, peony eyes emerge)

For the past week, spring peepers have provided the season's soundtrack from the pond a few hundred feet from the grange. Spring is in the ear, if not in the air.

The season's first peony eyes were spotted this morning. Purchased from Wal-Mart for a few bucks, Paeonia lactiflora "Bowl of Beauty" was planted in May 2007 after languishing for months in my basement before being rediscovered and planted. An instant malingerer, it never grew more than a few inches tall despite constant prodding, good schools, and the best private tutors. This year, it has put its humble beginnings behind it and has emerged far ahead of its more established counterpart in the other bed, "Sara Bernhardt," which didn't emerge until April 20 last year.

The bigleaf hydrangea macrophyllas, both the "bailmer" remontant and traditional varieties, have broken their winter dormancy. My traditional hydrangea - the kind that blooms on old wood - did not set any flowers last year and only 1 or 2 in 2006, whereas the remonant variety, which blooms on new wood put on a show all summer. This past winter wasn't quite as cold as last year's, allowing the traditional hydrangea to emerge a week sooner this year, so there might be hope for a least a few flowers.

In other corners of the garden, the Cornell Pink azalea (rhododendron mucronulatum) has started to leaf out. Crocuses continue to delight.

Useful Link: Growing Degree Day Maps

Faithful readers of this blog, all five of you including two inmates in a Hungarian penitentiary, know that I'm about as big into phenology as one could be. See?

Plants grow best at temperatures above 50 degrees. So, instead of looking at the calendar to see where your plants should be, it's better to see how often it's been above 50 degrees. Enter: the growing degree day, a rough calculation of how much the weather has been above 50. It's a useful indicator for gardeners because plants bloom, insects emerge, and celebrities wither at set phenological times. For instance, dandelions first flower at about 50 growing degree days, lilacs at about 238. (Kiddos - enter your phenological data here. Don't mention it to your friends. You'll surely remain dateless at prom if you do.)

Starting last year, all updates on this here "world wide web log" were keyed to GDDs, setting up comparisons (and fodder) for this year's posts.

The link below generates maps GDD across the county, allowing New Englanders to obtain a graphical representation of some of their poorer horticultural decisions as they covet gardens of warmer climes. GDD Maps.

Sources: U. Mass., U. Wisc. Penn St., Project Bud Burst

Larkspur, Cornflower, and Poppies Started in Elegant Back of Garage Cutting Garden

It's time to sow seeds in my garden like a sailor on shore leave with just days to live. But, when exactly? The backs of seed packets are vague and often offer little guidance, so below is a bit more guidance gleaned from the internet.

With afternoon temperatures near 48, a new garden bed behind the garage was prepared. Gone are a bunch of hostas that were mere placeholders last season until a better idea was hatched. That idea now is a cutting garden. Larkspur, poppies, and cornflower were sown today as soil temperatures were around 38, but, at that temperature, germination could still be weeks away.

Cleome
When: After last frost when ground is warm, although one site from Virginia Tech suggested late fall or early spring.
That's Neat: Needs oscillating temperatures of at least ten degrees. Germination is best with 80 degree days and 70 degree nights. Light is necessary for germination.
Sources: Garden Guide, Floridata, Plant Files, Virginia Tech, How Stuff Works, Goldsmith Seeds

Bachelor Button / Cornflower
When: 1 to 2 weeks before last frost.
Sources: Dave's Garden, Garden Guide, Virginia Tech Weed ID Guide

Corn Poppy "American Legion" Papaver rhoeas
When: As soon as soil can be worked.
Light: Full sun to partial shade.
Sources: Ovm-Seed, Dave's Garden, Taunton, Gardening Tips, Suite 101, Texas A & M, Michigan State,Iowa State, Purdue University (fantastic guide to all sorts of flowers), UC Riverside

Celosia Cristata / Celosia argentea "Pampas Plume"
When: Outdoors, when soil temp is about 60 F and all risk of frost has passed.
Sources: Texas A & M, Purdue University, U. of Md., Yankee Harvest, UVM

Larkspur Consolida ajacis
When: As soon as soil can be worked.
Light: Sun to partial shade
That's interesting: Poisonous if ingested, yet the genus, consolida, is a reference to its medicinal ability to heal wounds.
Sources: Garden Guide, U. Maryland, Texas A & M, U. Maryland, Colorado St., Brooklyn Botanic, Calendula and Concrete, Gardener's Network

Zinnia Zinnia elegans
When: After the danger of frost has passed and soil sufficiently warmed.
Sources: Virginia Tech, University of Kentucky, Iowa State, U. Wisconsin, U. Florida

Nasturtium Trapaeolum majus
When: After all danger of frost has passed.
That's neat: An aphid magnet, it's a good decoy to plant in vegetable gardens. Fully edible with a taste akin to watercress.
Sources: U. Kentucky, U. Wisconsin, Garden Guide, Texas A&M

General Sources
Seeds of Change, Seed Database from Hort Net

Useful Freeze Outlook Maps

Ignoring the snow flurries, frozen lakes, and little dogs swaddled in ridiculous sweaters, northern gardeners have been known to push the boundaries of spring. For those eager folks, here's a useful map from Intellicast that identifies areas subject to freezing and frosty temperatures.

Super Sugar Snap Peas Planted (GDD 6)

Super Sugar Snap Peas, originally uploaded by tpl108.

The soil in the raised bed warmed to 40 degrees, prompting me to plant the first crop of the season - Burpee's Super Sugar Snap Peas. Having great success with plain sugar snaps last year, a full 8' row of peas were planted. Following Jim Crockett's advice -- if you're stingy with your peas, they'll be stingy with you -- seeds were liberally spread. Wise words. Wise man.

Righting last year's improper citing of the raised bed, the bed was moved 30 feet east a bit south to take better advantage of the sun. During the height of summer last year, the bed received as few as four hours of direct sunlight, which lead to less-than-impressive yields.

Also, a quick soil test showed that my soil is slightly alcaline and depleted of nutrients.

Sources: Deirdre's Garden Diary, Growing and Caring for Peas, Capital District Community Gardens

Creating a Trellis for Raised Bed

Skip Jute. Choose Mason's Twine.

Your trellis will only be as good as the string that holds it together. Skip twine, jute, or anything made of natural fibers. They'll quickly rot and will have to be replaced quickly. Mason's twine, 50-lbs test, and made of some sort of polypropylene works very well. The same twine strung last year and subjected to the heat of summer and the cold of winter has shown few signs of deterioration.

Place Eye Hooks at 6 to 9 Inch Intervals Across Top, Bottom, and Sides

This allows all sorts of flexibility when it comes to creating designs, be it diagonal, vertical, horizontal, or perhaps a trendy European basketweave or houndstooth. My first go 'round was at 12 inch intervals. This was a bit too far for the peas for their liking as it took some coaxing to get them to grab hold of the string.

Anchor Your Line with Two Half-Hitches
Say what? This should help. See picture.

String Your Line Through the Eye Hooks

Working side to side and then top to bottom, string the line through the hooks. Double up the line and make an extra pass on the lower levels. They'll be the first levels of support, so give yourself a bit of insurance. Line is cheap. Your time isn't.

Create a Cleat to Tie Off Your Line & Adjust Tension

Anyone who's spent time around a boat knows how to tie a cleat knot. (Video and instructions here.) This allows you to place tension on the lines as needed and quickly and securely tie off your line. To create the cleat, drive two nails about an inch apart into the wood -- one at an angle down and the other at an angle up. See the picture for details. Alternatively, they sell cleats in hardware stores that are meant to be used with blinds.

Tip: Peas Cling Most to Horizontal Supports, Pole Beans Cling to Vertical Supports
Consequently, provide more vertical support for beans and closer horizontal supports for peas.

Crocus Blooms (GDD 6)

The first bloom of the 2008 season. Last year, the first crocus bloom didn't appear until March 21st.

Crocuses and Daylillies (GDD 6)

Daffodils Emerge (GDD 6)

Poking a few centimeters above the soggy soil, the first tulip shoots emerged today. Way back in September, dozens of bulbs were planted in beds across the front of the house. Not suprisingly, the first bulbs to show are planted closest to the house and in the sunniest bed. Compared to last year, these tulips emerged about 10 days earlier and 11 growing degree days sooner.

Daffodils Emerge in Early March, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Hi, I'd Like to Buy Some Flood Insurance . . .

Charles River - Hemlock Gorge Dam, originally uploaded by tpl108.

February's record-setting rainfall firmly pushed eastern Massachusetts out of a mild drought that had persisted since the end of last summer. In all, about eight inches of precipitation fell over the past month. This should help my rhododendrons, which were ravaged by cold and dry conditions last winter.

2008 Season Opens as First Shoots Signal Coming Spring (GDD 6)

New growth appeared on the garlic chives, reminding us that despite the snow and frigid temperatures, spring is on its way. With shoots about an inch long, it appears that the chives emerged from dormancy a week ago if not longer. This plant is always the first to break its hibernation. Planted in 2005 and divided several times, this plant re-awoke in mid-February in 2006 and in the first week of March of 2007. Although it'll be some time before any chives find their way into the kitchen, it looks like a good time to start making plans for a new season.

Winter Poor Time for Gardening; Plants Grow Unsatisfactorily

Snow, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Not much growing around here these days. Sleep tight, sweet raised garden bed. Your time will come soon enough.

2007: The Gardening Year that Was

The year that was on the Grange.

THE STATS

Last frost: May 7
First frost: October 29
Length of "frost free" growing season: 175 days (5 months, 22 days)
Effective growing season: late April through late September
First Mow: May 3
Last Mow: November 25

BEST & WORST

Best vegetable: Sugar snap peas. One of the first plants into the garden, its fast growth and abundant output made this the one crop that we never grew tired of.
Most disappointing vegetable: Beets. Despite numerous plantings and an NSA supercomputer, our beets were ping-pong ball sized at best and quite bitter.
Best surprise vegetable: Beet leaves. Excellent in salads (much like myself), beets will heretofore be grown solely for its leaves.
Hardiest vegetable: Swiss chard, var. Bright Lights. Kept growing through mid-November. Unfortunately, there were few takers for this leafy beauty. While wonderful when quickly sauteed, a decent serving required a whopping amount of leaves.
Best-tasting tomato: Brandywine, by a mile. Jumping on the heirloom vegetable bandwagon, Low-output and cracking were noticeable downsides.
Most-prolific tomato: Yellow-Pear and Better Boy. Yellow-Pears looked good from a far but were far from good. They may appear gourmet, but they taste is rather ho-hum. Better Boys, however, tasted great and produced a good number of fruit, solidifying their spot in next year's garden.
Most-disappointing tomato: Sungold. While supremely tasty, its low output was a big drawback.

Best flower: Peony. Even though the blooms lasted for a brief week, the huge blossoms were coveted by many a passerby. Hands off, fools. I'm watching you.
Best value flower: Walmart-specials, Cleome and Salvia. Purchased for maybe $2 each, these puppies kept blooming from mid-summer through the early-November. Three-cheers for the category-killer putting the little guy out of business!
Let's-hope-they-do-better-next-year flower: Echinacea. Transplanted in late-May, the Echinacea bloomed sporadically and despite their advertised drought-tolerance were the only casualty from the unusally dry August and September.
Worst planting arrangement: A soldierly rank-and-file approach gave my tulips all the charm of an invading German army.
Pack-your-things-and-get-frank-out-of-here flower: Astilbe. Prominently featured at the front of my south-facing border, its late and somewhat unimpressive blooms monopolized valuable garden space. They'll be transplanted to a shadier location (think: solitary stranger loitering near jungle gym).

Best-garden project: Lawn renovation. There's something extremely rewarding about taking a hardscrabble, weed-infested portion of the back yard and transforming it into turf. Turf-type tall fescues and perennial rye grasses are in my stable of friends.

Winter

Backyard, originally uploaded by tpl108.

Spring (and my garden) never seemed so far away. There's been a near constant snow cover here since the first week of December that has prevented me from amending the soil with fresh compost. However, with some balmy 40-degree weather in the forecast for this weekend, I'm looking forward to hauling a few hundred pounds of compost out back.